The leak got worse even though we added more quick setting putty steel over the leak. It was leaking fast. So we decided we had to do something. Wendy tried to fix it again as she was just thin enough to wedge between the floor and the engine but to no avail.
To top matters it was raining. Water inside the boat and water outside the boat. Friends Joyce and Charles told us of a marine repair yard in Meaux our next place of call, so we untied and in the damp weather headed downstream to Meaux and tied up outside the repair yard. Monsieur Le Chef came on board and shook his head here and shook his head at that and muttered some incomprehensible words and finally said to us “Non!!” He wasn’t interested in doing the job. Not for all the tea in China. It was trop difficile!
Oh dear. So I sat down and thought in the rain. We have two water tanks connected by an equaliser tube. Water goes into one tank (the leaky one) and across when needed to the other tank from where fresh water is taken for the taps and water heater. I figured out a way of separating the two tanks so we could empty the leaky one and also a way to fill the good tank with fresh water. We needed some tubes, some valves some hose joints. Luckily the marine yard had most of these in stock and ordered the missing bits for us which arrived the next day. A quick bit of plumbing later albeit in a very confined space and we now had one working tank and one empty tank. Phew! But it was still raining! We did list slightly to one side but it wasn’t too bad especially when we arranged some heavy items.
Luckily it eased the next day and we had a look around Meaux. A lovely cathedral and gardens were the main highlight.
In the evening we joined Terry and Iris from Texas and Adrian and Lorna from Auckland on Adrian and Lorna’s lovely Dutch barge Ariana for a few beers and wines. Terry and Iris were there on their barge also and moored next to us. Next morning a bit blurry eyed we headed out of Meaux on a lovely day (at last) on the last legs of our voyage to Paris. We stopped the night at Lagny sur Marne where again like Meaux we had free moorings courtesy of the local council.
Then next morning bright and early we made our way to Paris past the land of the “guinguettes” and rowing clubs. (Guinugettes are lovely bars/bistros on the banks of the Marne made famous at the turn of the 20th century by the artists and poets of impressionist France)
We had views of magnificent residences where in days of old there would have been ladies with ribbons, escorted by moustached gentlemen drinking some of the lovely local wine of Nogent. Then suddenly before we knew it we rounded the corner and left the Marne behind and entered the busy world of the River Seine and the inner suburbs of Paris. We sailed downstream surrounded by boats of all types – Hotel Boats, Bateaux Mouche, commercial barges and inflatables. Around a corner suddenly we saw Notre Dame and we quickly slowed down and called up the harbourmaster on Channel 9 to open the lock in to the Port of Paris Arsenal, the harbour at the entrance of the Canal St Martin reserved for pleasure boats. It was very full but luckily we had booked in advance and so a space was waiting for us.
Our mooring is just 100m from the Place de la Bastille (photo next week) and 20 minutes from Notre Dame. It is a long basin with boats crowding both sides and one side lovely gardens and a restaurant where the Parisians swarm during the day. We celebrated with a bottle of champagne bought in Epernay and soaked in the crowds and the activity from our water based hotel!
In the evening David watched the FIFA game of England versus the USA (England ha better pull up their socks as it was 1-1) while Wendy socialised with Joyce and Charles whose home port is Paris Arsenal.
Today we walked over to the Place de la Bastille and bought some English Sunday papers and then headed for the Marche Aligre where we discovered about 100 Fruit and veg stalls selling produce at very cheap prices and exceptional quality. We bought cherries for $4 a kilo, asparagus for $4 a kilo, a huge coriander bunch for 30c and strawbs for $4 a kilo. ($4 NZD = US$2.80)
Then we climbed some stairs to what was an old railway track and fell upon (well assisted by the guide book) the Viaduc des Arts. On the top where the tracks once were, weaving around the houses at roof level was a fantastic planted walk with flower beds, trees and ornamental gardens. With bamboo,roses, lavender and maples the walkway is a delight with wonderful views of the rooftops and into people’s apartments.
Underneath the Viaduct arches are scores of artisans making all sorts of things. We saw a shop specialising in gold and gilding objects d’art. A shop selling violins and cellos. Another one selling copper kitchenware and yet another one selling theatrical costumes.
But lunch was calling and I had a surprise for Wendy. I told here I was taking her to the Gare de Lyon for lunch. (A railway station). She had visions of steak and gristle pie or cold vegetable soup. We headed into the station and past the trains…
and up some stairs and into ‘Le Train Blue’ restaurant where a view from Versailles or Sistine Chapel greeted us. It was decorated with original pictures on the walls and ceilings in a magnificent display of 19th century Belle Epoque splendour. The Maitre D escorted us to our table where we could contemplate the menu and admire the view.
It was our first meal out since we had reached Europe some 4 weeks ago. And what a way to start! We ordered
Saucisson pistache a la lyoniaise en brioche, sauce perigeux for me and Emulsion d’asperges vertes glacee avec chantilly de foie gras for Wendy
Followed by Filet de rascasse roti (fish) for me and Tournedos of canard (duck) en croute de pain d’epices for Wendy. A bottle of 2000 Chateau Adelaide from Gaillac made for a great accompaniment for a superb meal at what was quite a reasonable price. Tasting French wines such as this one had made me realise that NZ, Australia and California place too much reliance on fruity wines made with just one grape variety instead of the French approach which invariable involves blending so that all the wines taste individual and not just the same old same old sav blanc for instance from NZ.
We are in Paris now for the next two weeks. There is a lot to see and many unusual sights to experience. Until next week au revoir from Wendy and David.
